ALASKA RAFT CONNECTION DO-IT-YOURSELF INFLATABLE BOAT REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS - SELF-HELP FOR REPAIRING YOUR RAFT, CATARAFT, KAYAK, CANOE, PONTOON, SPORTBOAT OR RIB AT HOME OR IN THE FIELD
12-Step Do-It-Yourself Inflatable Boat Repairs
Fix your inflatable raft, cataraft, kayak, canoe, packraft, pontoon,
runabout, tender, dinghy, liferaft, RIB, sportboat, inflatable boat parts, and
accessories at home or out in the field.
This self-help information will explain all the elements, tooling, and
procedures involved with repairing an inflatable boat without taking it to the
repair shop.
Repair information for Achilles, Advanced Elements, AIRE, Airib,
Airis, Alaska Series by Gary King, Alpaca, Apex, Aqualine, AVON, Bombard, Buck’s
Bag, Campways, Colman, Delphin, DIB, DRE, Feathercraft, Fishcat, Grabner, Hyside,
Incept, Innova, Intex, Jack’s Plastic Welding, Klepper, Little Creek Company, Maravia,
Metzeler, Momentum, Maxxon, NAIAD, NRS, Nautiraid, Outcast, Polaris, Riken, SeaEagle, Saturn, Sevylor, Soar, Solaris, SOTAR, Sportsmans, Star, Sterns, Tributary,
Thrillseaker, Vangaurd, Wing, Zebek, ZODIAC.
Step 1: Investigate and Evaluate
Before diving into any inflatable boat repair project, it is
important to know the make, model, year of manufacture, and the manufactures
warranty policy.
Look at the boat’s overall condition. See that it holds
air pressure for 24-60 hours.
Examine valves, fabrics, seams, D-rings, carry handles, or
other essential components (like transom on motorized sportboats) for damage. Identify if anything is missing (like
valve-caps).
Knowing exactly what the fix entails enables the repair
person to accurately layout the project and to acquire all the necessary
materials in advance.
SOAP CHECK - The
most common method of assessing damages to an inflatable boat is soap checking. Soap checks are one of the easiest, least
expensive, and best ways to locate the most commonly occurring punctures, cuts,
abrasions, or pinhole leaks. Properly
inflate your boat. Suds up the entire
raft, kayak, or canoe (including all ‘uncapped’ valves) like hand washing the
car. Damage areas foam up, make bubble
trails, or create larger bubbles. Smaller
leaks may take a few seconds to detect.
Let the soap sit and flood the suspect area for a while if you do not
see any evidence right away. Try the
same soapy solution in a spray bottle to better target less revealing seepage
of air. Keep track of what you find by marking
problem spots on the boat with a pencil or pen.
Draw an illustration of the damages on a sheet of paper if multiple
holes exist for later reference. Soap checking is not all that useful for
larger more evident injuries.
Step 2: ‘I have a blue raft!’… Rubber or Plastic?
People may know the inflatable boat brand, model, year of
manufacture, where and when purchased.
When the repair shop asks what kind of fabric your boat is made of… the
all too familiar reply is, ‘I have a blue one.’
Many are uncertain if it is constructed using rubber or plastic fabrics. Answering this frequently asked question is fundamental
to determining different preparations, adhesives, materials, and even what
types of field repair kits. When in
doubt, verify what your inflatable is made of with helpful tips or hands-on visual
inspection from ALASKA RAFT CONNECTION repair shop and check with the
manufacturer.
Step 3: Obtain equipment
with supplies --- Organize a clean work environment
This part of the Do-It-Yourself information will give How-To
repair details on inflatable boats made of natural or synthetic rubber-based
Hypalon, Neoprene, Gum, and EPDM.
CAUTION - Ideally,
inflatable boat repairs are done in well-ventilated areas due to the nature of
the chemical’s flammability and hazardous vapors they produce. It is a good practice to use personal protective
equipment like eye protection, respirator, and gloves when working with harmful
chemicals. When indoors, have a fire
extinguisher readily available and give yourself more than one escape
exit. Most repairs can be done in any
heated garage having sufficient room to place the boat on the floor with some
additional workspace. Perfect
temperatures are a controlled, dry 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit while working with boat
repair adhesives or coatings.
Fact that this self-help, how-to instruction covers similar
steps for field repair and provides useful references and resources… venturing outside
in an attempt to produce professional, factory-level repairs on hot sunny days,
during rain showers, under windy circumstances, or enduring cold to freezing
conditions is just not likely to turn out quite the same.
Suggested Equipment & Materials needed:
-Mixing container -Disposable paint brush -Clifton hypalon glue
-Chemical gloves - Rotary tool -Clifton
hypalon accelerator
-Respirator -Toluene -Clean
workspace
-Fabric roller -Clean shop rag -Sharp scissors
-Pen/Pencil -Goggles -Hypalon rubber
fabric
-Putty Knife
Step 4: Cut out Patch
The extent of damage determines the size of patch. Patches
should cover the damage by 2” on all sides.
Use round objects of varying sizes as stencils for
patches. (Lids, buckets, cups, etc.)
Carefully cut out the patch leave no rough or serrated
edges. Sharp scissors make clean cuts without
wasting material.
Step 5: Trace Patch on
Boat
Fold patch in half centering over damaged area for proper
alignment.
Trace around the perimeter of the patch with a pen or pencil.
Draw points of reference on the boat and patch so they may be
oriented for the repair. Mark as many
times as you like (1 or 2 works… more intricate patches may require more detailed
marks to identify ideal placement).
Step 6: Sand Boat
Position a hard flat surface (board, metal plate, etc.) beneath
the boat fabric to be sanded.
Stabilize the project with clamps to prevent shifting and repositioning
while sanding.
Use rotary tools to sand the inside of the circle. Stay within the lines! Careful edge work is done using a smaller
flap wheel for finer detail. Sand the
remaining area with a larger flap wheel.
Sanding with the small flap wheel creates an uneven surface texture
versus larger flap wheels laying down a homogenous plane. Sanded boat fabric should have a suede-like
surface. After completely sanding, brush
all rubber dust away.
Step 7: Sand Patch
Place patch on a soft textured surface (like a piece of
carpet). Position the patch on top of
the carpet and begin sanding. For best
results, never sand a patch on a hard surface. This may cause surface conformity
to interface of the hard plane leading to poor adhesion and failed air
retention. Sand with a large flap wheel
until all the sheen is removed. Shiny
patches do not stick! Sanded patches
should have a suede-like surface. After thoroughly
sanding, brush all rubber dust away.
Step 8: Mix Clifton
FA-4844 Adhesive (rubber glue)
Pour 2oz of Clifton’s FA-4844 adhesive into a clean mixing container. Do not use Styrofoam or disposable party
cups…they will dissolve! You will waste glue and make a mess.
If needed add a little toluene until the glue’s gooeyness
thins down to the consistency of pancake batter. Mix well with a disposable brush or mixing
stick like a Popsicle stick, tongue depressor, etc.
Strengthen adhesive and quicken process by adding Clifton Hypalon
Accelerator. Clifton adhesive to
accelerator ratio is 1 gallon to 0.8 oz.
A few drops of accelerator will be sufficient for the perfect rubber
glue mixture.
REMEMBER - Cover
glue containers when not in use to minimize fumes and spills. This good habit also keeps the adhesive from
curing in the container and hardening on the brush.
Step 9: Glue Patch (Performed simultaneously with Step 10)
Working on a clean surface, evenly apply a thin layer of rubber
glue to patch with a disposable paint brush.
As stated (steps 6 and 7) uneven surface textures are a troublemaker
because it leads to poor adhesion and failed air retention. Paint patch
consistently within 10-15 seconds. Avoid too many harsh brush
strokes because glue will set up unevenly by streaking.
Allow patch to dry until no longer tacky to touch.
Usually 20 minutes depending on conditions. When testing a patch for tackiness, touch
with the back of hand because fingertips are oily.
Lay down another coat of glue; also allow it to dry a second time.
Step 10: Glue Boat (Performed simultaneously with Step 9)
Paint rubber glue on consistently, being careful not to
over-stroke and streak. Stay within the
lines! Gluing beyond the patch area is
unnecessary. Let dry approximately 20 minutes.
Lay down another coat of glue and let dry.
Step 11: Stick Patch to Boat
Dampen a clean, lint-free cloth, T- shirt rag, or disposable
towel with Toluene. Think along the
lines of preparation or sterile wipe weave – not paper towels.
‘Gently’ flash wipe over repair area. This will reactivate the adhesive.
Sticky Patch - Rubber glue on boat surface will reactivate
for only sufficient time to promptly place the patch on.
Advantages to the
gluing/flashing technique are:
A.) Means to position
patches flawlessly sticking them down the first time around.
B.) Facilitating
swift removal of misaligned, irregular patch work to get a subsequent try.
Step 12: Finishing Methods
Using a putty knife apply firm pressure to patch
starting from center and pushing toward the outside edges. This removes air pockets between fabric
layers.
Using a fabric roller, forcefully roll the entire patch to guaranty secure, airtight adhesion.
For best results, let the job cure for 72hours before soap checking again to look for missed maintenance or evaluating
unsatisfactory repair.
The next section of the Do-It-Yourself information will give How-To
repair details on inflatable boats made of PVC, Urethane, and other plastomer/plastic based fabrics.
Applying a Plastic Patch
Several steps will be familiar to rubber-based inflatable
boat repairs… There are particular elements and ingredients to the procedure
that will be different.
Step 1: Investigate and Evaluate
Before diving into any inflatable boat repair project, it is
important to know the make, model, year of manufacture, and the manufactures
warranty policy.
Look at the boat’s overall condition. See that it holds
air pressure for 24-60 hours.
Examine valves, fabrics, seams, D-rings, carry handles, or
other essential components (like transom on motorized sportboats) for
damage. Identify if anything is missing
(like valve-caps).
Knowing exactly what the fix entails enables the repair
person to accurately layout the project and to acquire all the necessary
materials in advance.
SOAP CHECK - The
most common method of assessing damages to an inflatable boat is soap
checking. Soap checks are one of the
easiest, least expensive, and best ways to locate the most commonly occurring
punctures, cuts, abrasions, or pinhole leaks.
Properly inflate your boat. Suds
up the entire raft, kayak, or canoe (including all ‘uncapped’ valves) like hand
washing the car. Damage areas foam up,
make bubble trails, or create larger bubbles.
Smaller leaks may take a few seconds to detect. Let the soap sit and flood the suspect area
for a while if you do not see any evidence right away. Try the same soapy solution in a spray bottle
to better target less revealing seepage of air.
Keep track of what you find by marking problem spots on the boat with a
pencil or pen. Draw an illustration of
the damages on a sheet of paper if multiple holes exist for later reference. Soap
checking is not all that useful for larger more evident injuries.
Step 2: ‘I have a red boat!’… Plastic or Rubber?
People may know the inflatable boat brand, model, year of
manufacture, where and when purchased.
When the repair shop asks what kind of fabric your boat is made of… the
all too familiar reply is, ‘I have a red one.’
Many are uncertain if it is constructed using rubber or plastic
fabrics. Answering this frequently asked
question is fundamental to determining different preparations, adhesives,
materials, and even what types of field repair kits. When in doubt, verify what your inflatable is
made of with helpful tips or hands-on visual inspection from ALASKA RAFT
CONNECTION repair shop and check with the manufacturer.
Step 3: Obtain equipment
with supplies --- Organize a clean work environment
This part of the Do-It-Yourself information will give How-To
repair details on inflatable boats made of Plastic-based PVC, Elvaloy,
Urethane, and vinyl Fabrics. This
self-help information will explain all the elements, tooling and procedures
involved with repairing an inflatable boat without taking it to the repair
shop.
CAUTION - Ideally,
inflatable boat repairs are done in well-ventilated areas due to the nature of
the chemical’s flammability and hazardous vapors they produce. It is a good practice to use personal
protective equipment like eye protection, respirator, and gloves when working
with harmful chemicals. When indoors,
have a fire extinguisher readily available and give yourself more than one
escape exit. Most repairs can be done in
any heated garage having sufficient room to place the boat on the floor with
some additional workspace. Perfect temperatures
are a controlled, dry 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit while working with boat repair
adhesives or coatings.
Fact that this self-help, how-to instruction covers similar
steps for field repair and provides useful references and resources… venturing
outside in an attempt to produce professional, factory-level repairs on hot
sunny days, during rain showers, under windy circumstances, or enduring cold to
freezing conditions is just not likely to turn out quite the same.
Suggested Equipment & Materials needed:
-mixing cups -MEK -PVC glue
and activator
-disposable paint
brush -fabric roller -heat gun
-sharp scissors -respirator -chemical gloves
-eye protection -putty knife -pen/pencil
-PVC/Plastic fabric
Step 4: Cut Out Patch
The extent of damage determines the size of patch. Patches
should cover the damage by 2” on all sides.
Use round objects of varying sizes as stencils for
patches. (Lids, buckets, cups, etc.)
Carefully cut out the patch leave no rough or serrated
edges. Sharp scissors make clean cuts
without wasting material.
Step 5: Trace Patch on
Boat
Fold patch in half centering over damaged area for proper
alignment.
Trace around the perimeter of the patch with a pen or
pencil.
Draw points of reference on the boat and patch so they may
be oriented for the repair. Mark as many
times as you like (1 or 2 works… more intricate patches may require more
detailed marks to identify ideal placement).
MEK is a strong solvent/degreaser and can wash away light
lines.
Step 6: Preparing PVC/Plastic Patch
Plastic fabric can be chemically etched with Methyl Ethyl
Ketone (MEK) and does not require sanding in most cases.
Tougher urethane fabrics may involve sanding to remove
original factory surface.
WARNING! - Use respirator, gloves, and eye protection.
Pour about 4 oz of MEK into a mixing cup. Do not use Styrofoam or disposable party
cups…they will dissolve! You will waste chemical and make a mess.
Using a disposable paintbrush, aggressively wash the surface
with MEK at least 5 times allowing the surface to dry between washings.
Step 7: Preparing PVC/Plastic Boat
Thoroughly wash repair area at least 5 times with MEK.
Care must be taken to prevent MEK from running all over the
boat. Use a shop rag to absorb excess
chemical.
Sanding could be involved to remove old glue or prepare
sturdy urethane fabrics.
Step 8: Mixing PVC/Plastic Glue
Pour Stabond UK-148 into a mixing cup. Add the adhesive’s accelerator. Stabond recommends mixture of 10 parts
adhesive to 1 part accelerator.
AVOID - Styrofoam
or disposable party cups…they will dissolve! You will waste glue and make a
mess.
REMEMBER - Cover
glue containers when not in use to minimize fumes and spills. This good habit also keeps the adhesive from
curing in the container and hardening on the brush.
Step 9: Glue Patch (Performed simultaneously with Step 10)
Working on a clean surface, evenly apply a thin layer of
Stabond to patch with a disposable paint brush.
As in steps 6 and 7, uneven surface texture is a troublemaker
because it leads to poor adhesion and failed air retention. Paint patch consistently within 10-15
seconds. Avoid too many harsh brush
strokes because glue will set up unevenly by streaking.
Allow patch to dry until nolonger tacky to touch. Usually 20
minutes depending on conditions. When
testing a patch for tackiness, touch with the back of hand because fingertips
are oily.
Lay down another coat of glue;also allow it to dry a second time.
Step 10: Glue Boat (Performed simultaneously with Step 9)
Paint glue on consistently, being careful not to over-stroke
and streak. Stay within the lines! Gluing beyond the patch area is
unnecessary. Let dry approximately 20
minutes.
Lay down another coat of glue
and let dry.
Step 11: Stick Patch to Boat
Have heat gun handy.
Place patch over repair area by aligning any points of
reference. Notice patch will not stick
to the raft until a heat source is added.
Try not to drop it. When
satisfied with the patch’s position use the heat gun to activate the glue.
AVOID - Aiming
heat gun directly at the repair area. Continuously move heat gun above any fabric or
it will delaminate. A good rule of thumb
is that if its too hot for your hand….it’s too hot for the boat.
Step 12: Finishing Methods
Using a putty knife apply firm pressure to patch starting
from center and pushing toward the outside edges. This removes air pockets between fabric
layers.
Using a fabric roller, forcefully roll the entire patch to guaranty secure, airtight adhesion. If any obvious air pockets are present use
the heat gun to reheat the area and work the pocket to the outside with a putty
knife or fabric roller.
For best results, let the job cure for 72 hours before soap
checking again to look for missed maintenance or evaluating unsatisfactory
repair.
With 20,320' Denali and Alaska
Range in the background - What an Awesome Day!
|